Playa Blanca

On my first holiday to South America, we spent nearly 3 weeks in Chile and traveled all over the country.  It was my first introduction to Latin American culture and cuisine (apart from what I had experienced at home from my family) and I was in heaven!  The next few posts will deal with all things Chile, from food to drinks to the best markets and restaurants.  We are lucky enough to have a house down in the lake region in the South of Chile, which is the most gorgeous place I have ever had the pleasure of visiting.  Just over 1000 km south of Santiago, lies Lago Todo los Santos, a beautiful emerald green lake, surrounded by imposing snow-capped volcanoes.  From our house on the edge of the lake at a spot named Playa Blanca (White Beach), Volcan Osorno dominates the view, reminding me of the amazing power of nature.  Everything here is untouched, unspoiled, and completely at peace.  The only way to reach our house is by boat, and our first crossing was an adventure in itself!  After driving for two days from Santiago, we arrived in Puerto Varas, a small town on the edge of  Lake Llanquihue, just in time for a Pisco Sour and a beautiful plate of cheeses, meats, sweet spicy peppers and bread.  This was followed by a delicious dinner that centered around seafood and fish.  A popular dish in Chile is “chupe de mariscos”, a creamy, cheesy stew filled with shellfish like shrimp, mussels and clams.  Mine did not disappoint.  Full to the brim with delicious shellfish, I was in heaven!  

 We awoke the morning of the crossing to torrential rain and wind, and were notified that the lake was unsafe to cross.  We waited impatiently for a few hours until the weather improved, and made a mad dash to the supermarket in town (more to come on this later!).  Once we cross the lake, the only food we’ll have access to is the food we grow, or the animals we raise over there.  We stocked up the essentials (and lots of non-essentials but delicious food nonetheless) and somehow fit everything into our car and set off for Todo Los Santos!  We arrived at Petrohue, a tiny outpost on the edge of the lake, and met Cheño, who takes care of our house, and provides the all important transportation to the house.  We jumped dragged our luggage and food onto the boat, and we were off!  Less than half an hour later, we arrived at Playa Blanca safe and sound, if a bit windswept.  We lugged our suitcases and bags up the hill to the house and as we walked in, we were met with the most amazing aroma.  Cheño’s wife, Edelia, is what we like to call a “super mujer” (super woman).  We were ushered in to sit down and she produced steaming bowls of Cazuela, a basket of warm pancitos (homemade little dinner rolls), and hard pats of butter.  Cazuela is a stew made with carne (beef) or pollo (chicken) and a plethora of vegetables like sweet baby peas, carrots,pumpkin,potatoes and a piece of corn on the cob.  Probably the best part of this meal was the fact that all of the vegetables were grown in Edelia’s garden, and the meat was from animals raised at Playa Blanca.  Talk about organic and locally grown!  After a huge bowl, and too many pancitos to remember, we spent a lazy afternoon exploring the house and the surrounding area.  I truly believe this is the most beautiful place on the planet (the header on the top of the page is the view from our house).  More to come on the German influence on food in this area, cocktail hour on Playa Blanca, and the freshest fish you have EVER tasted.  And check the recipe page soon for a Cazuela recipe!